Wednesday, May 19, 2010

The Great Ocean Road, following the spectacular coastline of Victoria, is one of the most famous attractions in the state.  The drive along the winding road is peppered with open, steep coastline, sandy beaches, crystal blue water, and towering yellow-tan limestone pinnacles rising up out of the aquamarine ocean.  The road stretches about 260 km from Geelong in the east all the way to Nelson on the border of South Australia, although the distance of your own driving experience is up to you!

While the tour route officially begins at Geelong, the first stop along the coastline is Torquay, a booming surfing town home to the headquarters of the surfing company giants such as Rip Curl and Quiksilver.  My Great Ocean Road adventure started bright and early on Friday, May 14th, when Andrew (the father of my au pair family) drove me into Melbourne to my tour operator's headquarters at 7:30am.  I was one of ten girls in the tour group: 5 boisterous backpackers from England, 3 more quiet backpackers from Germany, 1 from Holland, and myself.  We were all in our twenties, either backpacking around various countries of the world, or, in my own case, visiting Melbourne for a bit!  Peter, our tour guide, packed us all into the small van with our trailer and we set off driving over Westgate bridge (the 2nd longest bridge in Australia) for Torquay.  A brief stop there was followed by a viewing of Bells Beach, renowned for the surfing competition at Easter.  


Youyang Mountains



Torquay!  SURF CITY!!

Women's surfing champion...not me

Too cold for me to go surfing!

But not for them!



Following the winding coastline, we passed through Anglesea and Aireys Inlet, stopping to see the Split Point Lighthouse.  The weather was quite chilly and overcast, but we were lucky it wasn't pouring rain!  This made for a quite enchanting drive, as overcast skies occasionally cleared with a brief burst of sunshine pouring onto the rocky cliffs by the oceanside.  After a "cuppa" (tea) at the lighthouse, we continued on to Lorne, a little town near the Erskine Falls.  I took advantage of the vacant passenger side (on the left!) so that I could have a clear view out the window.



Heading toward Anglesea


Split point lighthouse


I think that's Lorne you can see in the background....






Somebody wants a good view


War memorial











Erskine Falls


Lorne Pier

We had lunch in Lorne, an enchanting little town of colorful houses sporting a pier that stuck out into the ocean where, our tour guide told us, we might be able to see stingrays. Although we didn't see any of those seafaring giants, we had spectacular views of the coastline that weaves along in and out of Great Otway National Park.

Near Kennett River further along, we stopped at a caravan park to peer around for koalas, and were suddenly harassed by a flock of Rosellas that swooped down for the munchies Peter had brought!  Freaking out because they thought they were being attacked, the English girls began screaming and distractedly kept their palms outstretched so that they were further visited by gigantic parrots with sharp talons!  It was a sight.





Cape Patton was somewhat reminescent of some rocky Scottish coast, and Apollo Bay was truly lovely.  After Apollo Bay the road swung inland over Cape Otway onward to Princeton.  We stopped in the Otways however for an evening walk at Maits Rest, a bit of rainforest with giant cycads and...glowworms!  It was quite magical; each little glowworm is just some bluish blink of light that, when viewed directly, still gives you that bit of doubt- is it just an illusion, or did I see a spot of light? 




Cape Patton


Lumbering through dinosaur country...Maits Rest



The night was quite cold, but luckily we were staying in cabins in Bimbi Park, although some hardy souls did camp out under the koalas in the trees!  










The next morning we left around 8:30 for our first stop at Gibson steps, from which you could view two of the famed Twelve Apostles: great limestone pinnacles carved away from the mainland.  We descended steps to the beach, where we were afforded a more imposing view.  From there we continued to a better viewing area of the rest of the Apostles (of which I don't believe there are actually twelve...).  Several of the girls took a helicopter ride out over the towers, and on such a bright sunny day, I'm sure it was indeed an experience!












The "Twelve" Apostles


Loch Ard Gorge followed close on the heels of this attraction, with its own story out of the myraid shipwreck stories on this magical coast.  Several more limestone formations, including the "Razorback", could be seen from the lookout platforms.  







Can you see the "face" slightly to the right of the center?


The "Razorback" is right behind me


Loch Ard Gorge


We had lunch in Port Campbell, and saw "London Bridge" after lunch.  Apparently there had been two archways before the bridge from the mainland collapsed several years ago, stranding two people on the far side!  So they now term it, "London Arch."  




London...Bridge


Bay of Islands


We passed through Peterborough and say the Bay of Islands, before hitting Warrnambool and heading up north inland through Tower Hill, site of a volcano so many years ago.  But before we left we didn't miss the emus and black wallabies!













Emus!!!


Northward and onward toward Grampians National Park....  with Mount Abrupt and Mount Sturgeon rising up to greet us.  









We reached the Grampians by nightfall, staying for the very cold night at an enchanting site called Asses Ears Wilderness Lodge, after the mountain which rose up nearby.  



Sunrise at the Lodge







On Sunday morning we took off early for MacKenzie Falls, through lovely pastures sprinkled with eucalypt forests and a mountainous backdrop.












Several lookout stops included Reed's Lookout....breathtaking.









After tea, it was time for the Pinnacle Walk!  We hiked up the Pinnacles and walked back to the Wonderland Carpark via the "Grand Canyon".  The weather that day was like a sunny spring day in the northeast, and I'd rate it as the highlight of the tour.


I believe this is Lake Bellfield


Hiking up the Pinnacle






















Hiking down now...to the carpark


Red lichen growing on the trees


Down through the "Grand Canyon" (haha)





Halls Gap


We had lunch in Halls Gap, a little resort town at the foot of the Grampians, and took a brief drive over to the Brambuk Cultural Center, an information center about Aboriginal culture and history.  That began our drive back east to Melbourne.







Lake Fyans...continually drying =(


Ah...the beautiful landscape


Bunjil Shelter...site of an aboriginal painting


And, an hour and a half after passing through Ballarat (one of the largest inland cities in Australia) and dropping off those who would continue on to Adelaide by train, we arrived back in Melbourne!

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